Open a map, glance slightly right and down from Shanghai, and voilà – you’ll stumble across a cluster of islands collectively known as Dongji Island. While it may appear to be a short boat ride from Shanghai, the islands are actually a charming enclave of Zhoushan, Zhejiang Province. This hidden retreat is home to an exciting tale from World War II, along with some fab photo locations that are sure to get some likes on your social media feed.
Zhejiang Province is a tourist heavyweight in China, boasting the scenic West Lake in Hangzhou and the magical water towns of Jiangnan(prosperous areas along the lower reaches of the Yangtze River). So, as I set foot in Zhoushan and gazed at Dongji Island, I couldn’t help but wonder: will this quaint community be able to pack a big enough punch to stand out?
First, let’s delve into the history. The story and mystique of the island are among its biggest selling points.
In 1942, the Japanese ship Lisbon Maru found itself in a precarious situation as it became a floating prison for 1,816 British prisoners of war. When an American vessel engaged in a fierce encounter, it sank the ship. This set the stage for a dramatic escape. Some brave British lads managed to break free, and a group of daring local residents spotted them floundering just off their coast. Without a moment’s hesitation, they jumped aboard their dinghies and raced out to rescue them, saving over 380 lives.
With only a humble little island to call home, the locals did not have the means to keep all the soldiers fed and hidden. Consequently, the soldiers decided to surrender to the Japanese forces. However, three soldiers managed to slip away and were given refuge on the island. They were taken under the wings of the kind-hearted locals, forming friendships that needed no translation. After dodging numerous Japanese searches, they were eventually escorted to Chongqing, forever grateful for the kindness shown to them. Thanks to a 2024 documentary and now blockbuster movie about this heroic chapter, Dongji Rescue, which just hit the big screen in China, the island is making a tourism push. After watching the movie – spoiler: it’s not half bad, I decided it was time for my own Dongji adventure.
My journey kicked off with a bullet train ride from Beijing to Hangzhou, followed by a nearly three-hour bus ride to Zhoushan, from where ferries depart to Dongji. Zhoushan is filled with seafood delights and stellar amenities – make sure to take advantage before heading to rustic Dongji. There are three islands – Miaozihu, the main one, and Qingbang and Dongfushan which can be reached by boat from Miaozihu.
The ferry from Zhoushan Port to Dongji Island takes about an hour, and let me tell you, the waves were choppy. I nearly lost count of how many passengers were clutching their stomachs and paper bags. However, this ferry is pet-friendly, which immediately gave it top marks in my book. This would be an ongoing theme throughout this pet-tastic trip, with most of the restaurants and shops welcomed canine companions. It was a joy see furry fellows running around the island, and it made me wish I could have brought my own pup along for the journey.
Upon arriving at Miaozihu Island – the main island where I spent almost all my time – I paused to feel the sea air brush against my cheeks. However, my tranquil moment was abruptly interrupted by the selfie-loving Gen-Z culture. If your life is rooted in social media, this setup has got you covered. With cafes perched on grassy hills, giant picture frames designed for taking photos, charming alleys, trendy shops, and, I almost forgot, the stunning natural scenery, social media readiness is practically part of the island’s DNA. Electric carts whisk around the island, ensuring that every Insta-worthy spot is visited without delay.
When you’re not busy beefing up your social media credibility, take a leisurely stroll through the charming brick alleyways filled with quirky gift shops and make your way to the Dongji Island Museum. It may be only the size of a two-story house, but it brims with memorabilia that tells the island’s story. As a Brit who has enjoyed making friends in China for well over a decade, I loved learning about the historical camaraderie between our two nations.
With the help of some friends, I was able to track down some descendants of the locals who had once come to the aid of British soldiers. They took me to the shoreline where the event took place, recounting the events of that fateful day in 1942 and pointing out the exact location. While this experience may not be available to every traveler, it was a highlight of my trip. I believe guided tours with local descendants would be a great direction for the island to take in the future.
Now let’s talk food. At Dongji Island, it’s essentially a coin flip between Western fare and Chinesestyle seafood. If you wake up craving seafood and sandwiches, you’re in luck. The Western venues range from darling cafes to eateries and bars. Don’t get me wrong, the food is good, but expect to pay Shanghai prices. On the other hand, while the Chinese seafood offers a more authentic experience, diversity is not exactly the island's strong suit. If you’re dreaming of a spicy Hunan meal or a round of dim sum by the beach, you are going to be bang out of luck. That said, the seafood is tasty and remarkably well-prepared.
And now for my biggest gripe about Dongji Island: while it’s charming and quaint, it could really use a sprinkle of commercial amenities. Once you disembark from the ferry, forget about the fancy shops or spas of Zhoushan. Normally, I’m all in for the rustic getaway vibe, but this little island felt too quaint for an extended stay – especially if you’re traveling with kids. I mean, where’s the beach club for sipping mojitos while the kids play in the sun?
However, if you’re feeling fancy, Dongji Island offers a premium experience that sadly exceeded my modest means. You won’t find large hotels here. Instead, former residential complexes have been repurposed into accommodations with character. The place we stayed at had a rustic vibe that was as warm and welcoming as its host. But if you’re looking to really push the boat out, you could rent a private villa perched atop the island, complete with slides leading from the bedroom into infinity pools.
If I were to bring a friend to Dongji Island, I’d offer up two options: either arrive bright and early, spend the day snapping stunning photos, soaking up the island’s history, or go for broke and book a night in a fancy villa, do all that in day one, and wrap up the evening with a nice bottle of wine, some sea breeze and a perfect sunset view.
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